Step one was the windows. RV window frames are usually aluminum to save weight. This is, of course, completely useless for insulation. Put your hand on your window frame in summer on a sunny day and you'll see what I mean. The same works in reverse; heat in your house goes straight out the window (frame). Most RVs also have single pane windows, also nearly useless on insulation.
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| Yes, this works. |
The outside came first. Even the slightest barrier between the air and the aluminum drastically reduced heat transfer, and you could tell. We found that the double-sided tape that comes with the window shrink film doesn't stick very well to fibreglass, but that also could have been the cold as we started late. Even still, we recommend going around the outside of the plastic with strips of packing tape to guarantee a good seal that won't be ripped away by the wind.
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| The hard part. |
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| Mmm, yummy. |
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| This was way more difficult than it should have been. |
We still wanted to be able to clear the air in the house from time to time without leaving the door wide open, so we left film off of one window in each room, only placing it on the outside with the tape directly on the frame. Then we could crack the windows and run the fans to move fresh air through the house.
Everything we read about our propane heater warned us that it wasn't built for heavy use. Case in point, the person we borrowed that hair drier from had been keeping her propane heater on almost all the time in an effort to keep it warm and preventing moisture buildup (they went through twice as much propane as we did before we bought the oil radiator to help reduce propane usage). Her heater broke and it cost hundreds of dollars to get it fixed. And what broke that cost so much? A single switch. A switch that turns the heater on and off. One. Single. Switch. Her trailer was three years newer than ours.
Originally we had a ceramic fan heater, but it broke. More bad advice from the Glitz and Glammers, we bought the above oil radiator to replace it. While it did a fair job of reducing propane use, the ceramic heater was phenomenally more efficient. The heat from the radiator has a tendency to only go out so far, and most of it rises straight to the ceiling. The fan heater circulates the air, preventing a single warm spot from developing and helping move air to cold spots. But, we already dropped $100 on an oil radiator, so we lived with what he had for the winter. We are planning on replacing this with a ceramic fan heater soon.
As we kept an eye on the changing weather, we had two options with the water hose: insulate it or buy a heated hose. After mathing out the the cost of insulating (along with the work involved with doing so), we bought a 25-foot long heated water hose (50-foot long also available).
We were the only ones in the park that didn't have a frozen water line when the first cold snap hit.
It doesn't snow often in the Comox Valley, but it does snow. And it is heavy and wet. To prevent damage, you need to get on top of the RV and push it off. This was a harrowing experience as the rubber roof was extremely slippery. I skidded around and almost fell off the roof close to a dozen times. For the most part the roof handled the cold and snow fine, but it didn't fully survive.
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| Look closely... That's packing tape. |
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| This made us miss Manitoba a bit... |
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| Palm tree... snow... wait... what... no... *twitching* |
The next problem was the insanely cold floors, especially by the door. It wasn't only uncomfortable, but you could tell we were losing heat through the vinyl.
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| Yes, that's a robot vacuum. No, it doesn't work on rubber. |
The foam rubber pads completely solved that problem. I cut them to fit with a knife and pieced them together. Our propane usage and electric bills went down noticeably, probably close to 10%. A skirt definitely would have been a good idea, but they cost so much and we were too tight on funds so we had to find creative solutions.
The final problem was how cold our bedroom got. Aurora's room was never so cold. The underpasses on travel trailers get no heat, have terrible insulation, and at least on ours the frame is aluminum. Towards the end of winter, we were able to buy foam board and spray foam insulation to finish our adventures in adding R-value to the trailer.
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| This is a lot more work than you think it will be when you start. |
I purchased R-5 foam board and doubled it. I cut it to fit in between the frame pieces and used a special adhesive. The boards then needed to be propped up over night for the adhesive to cure before I could add the second layer of foam board. As we had things stored in the underpass, I had to do one side at a time. As the insulation was added, the room was warmer each night.
As I mentioned in Round 2: Mold, we had mold in the walls in our room. This was due to the cold spots created by the underpass. Those cold spots are now entirely gone, so insulating your underpass properly serves two purposes.
It was a lot of work over a long period of time, but we managed.
Round three... we'll call it a tie.












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